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Dr... did your new FT02S come with the newer AP-181s? If so, where did you get it?
I got it from Amazon, how would I tell if the fans were newer? I haven't been following the saga.
Honeycomb. So mine will break eh? :-P
Should I just put the RMA for three fans into silverstone now?
Honeycomb. So mine will break eh? :-P
Should I just put the RMA for three fans into silverstone now?
The APs are the best fans available for this case at the moment, it's just they seem to be having issues with QC. Though I have the old style fans (FNs, I believe?), and they cool just fine, and are sufficiently quiet for me when set to high.
Post the results of your experiments, I bet we're not the only two people considering putting AP181s onto a fan controller. Don't forget to keep high/low switches on top of the case set to high when the fans are driven by the controller.
Have you been able to get SpeedFan to work with your mobo? I gave up, all the temp reading were way off, so just using Asus Fan Xpert for now. If I were you, I would set the rpm vs temp ramp-up to be pretty slow and not reach 100%, AP181s at 1200 rpm are just insanely loud. I use open headphones (Sennheiser HD600), so I want noise level to be reasonable during gaming too.
Hmm, so this review says that the PWM function on your controller only works for the CPU fan header: "Although the box and manual state otherwise, using the automatic Smart Cooling System with the supplied PWM cable connected does not vary any of the fans' speed based on temperature. Instead, automatic mode runs the selected fan(s) at the maximum 12v power. This isn't a particularly huge deal since all six of the connected fans can be manually adjusted, however, it's no good if you're looking to set it and forget it. The only fan that correlates speed and temperature is the CPU cooling fan."
So installing the fan controller backwards in the case ended up working pretty sweet. I think it looks kinda cool inside of the case, and no knobs sticking outside of the case. It was a pain in the butt to install though because I had to take the entire motherboard out so I could slide the controller in.
Anyhow, I am finally happy with the noise level in my case. I ended up just manually controlling all of the AP181s.
Now time to deal with the rats nest of wires...
Glad it all worked out. So there was no way to slide the controller into the 5.25" bay from the front and then connect the wires? I'm getting my Lamptron FC Touch today, so some rewiring is in order for me too.
BTW, I wouldn't use the front panel case header to connect decent headphones to your Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD![]()
Does it make a difference? Barely if at all. Airflow in the FT02 is so good that I wonder if the armor is actually detrimental.
Yeah considering they are selling same mobos in even hottest coutries and that they have to worry about little johny putting it into $20 case with something like 1 or 2 fans the stuff we put into RV or FT has paradise like comditions as far as computer equipment goes.
Thanks for the info. Have you ever put an IR thermometer to your Kaze Master's PCB? I don't think it has any heat sinks, so I wonder how hot it gets when running AP181s at 600 rpm, so around 6V probably.
I bought one of these IR thermometers from amazon.com....figured it would come in handy....so I did some measurements....at 600 rpm...generally, the PCB of the Kaze is the hottest places inside my case (that I can shine an IR beam on, that is). The range is from 96 to 103 deg F (warmest on the side where the wires to the fans extend out). This is viewed on the component side of the PCB...curiously, I did the probing on the other side...where you can read the fan speeds...and the temps are about the same there...in fact, the outer windows where the temps are viewed feels a bit warm to my fingers.
I turned the fan speed to max and did it again...now I get the max temp on that same side but it is around 105 deg F.
Personally, I don't think these temps are much of a problem.
I've been saying that I wanted a nice PC case for years, and for almost as long, that I would build another gaming PC after switching to consoles for gaming the last couple of generations and Macs for PC-related tasks.
With the new B3 boards finally in-stock here, the timing seemed right and I built myself this system last week:
Intel i5-2500KI had planned on picking up one of the new Intel SSDs, but the switch to a Marvell controller and performance worse than the previous generation of drive that I've been using in some cases has made me hold off until all the new SATA3 drives are out and tested.
Thermalright TRUE Black (from my previous system)
ASUS Sabertooth P67
8GB Corsair Vengeance 8-8-8-24 1.5v
EVGA GTX570-SC
Corsair AX850 PSU
I did spend a bit more on some items purely for aesthetic reasons with this build
Thanks.Great-looking build. I would space out your 3 HDDs though and use slots 1, 3, and 5. That is unless you have a fourth HDD in the first slot already, can't really see because of the hot-swap bracket.
Looks like that works well, but seems like it would be tough to do with the three drives, especially if I'm going to add more. Just a shame that the caddies didn't really help dampen the noise at all. Fortunately as I said, it isn't kept in the same room as the display it's hooked up to. I would definitely be looking into other options if I was in the same room as it, though it may just be as simple as buying sorbothane feet to put on the bottom of the case.If you're bothered by the HDD seek noise, I would consider soft-mounting them. SPCR has a lot of guides on this. I'm not too sure how you would do all three, but you can see how I did my single HDD here.
I'll have a look for that. I'm not too concerned about leaving the chassis fans on at low speed, but my CPU fan is running at 1400rpm. It is a quiet fan (Scythe Gentle Typhoon) but it's probably still audible over the AP181sI'll have to test that when I get a replacement motherboard. (everything is all boxed up now)Sabertooth P67 has one 3-pin fan header with adjustable voltage, CHA_FAN 2. The current rating for it is impossible to find out, but all three AP181s set at 50% or less would draw less than 1A, so it's probably safe to hook them up to just one header through a 3-way splitter. This way you'll just control them through Asus Fan Xpert and won't have to find space for your T-Balancer.
Well that, the fully modular AX850 instead of an HX850 or non-modular PSU, Corsair Vengeance instead of similarly rated XMS RAM, NZXT sleeved cable extensions to keep things tidy.You mean the Sabertooth mobo?![]()
It's a Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450 rpm fan which is supposed to have a very good airflow-to-noise ratio.Hi andrewfee, great looking build you got there! I too am considering of purchasing the FT-02 case.. and I was curious what heatsink fan is attached to your thermalright heatsink? Also, I noticed you said it isn't as quiet as what people claim it to be, but is the noise coming from your HDDs or the case fans?

For a case the size it is, I expected there to be a bigger space behind the motherboard, and some kind of rubber to hide the cables like Corsair uses in their cases would have been nice.
I'm also a bit disappointed that they didn't use black cables and/or sleeve the cables inside the case, considering the price. I might see about sleeving those cables along with the one for my CPU fan while waiting for a new board.
I was also surprised at the noise from the case. With so many people calling it quiet, I wasn't expecting the constant low hum that I get from it. It seems to transfer the noise from the hard drives right into the floor a lot better than my old case didthe PC is actually kept in another room with long HDMI and USB cables, and I can still easily tell when it's on.
When the fans are on high (fortunately this does not seem like it will be necessary to keep things cool) the case is positively loud.
I had decided against putting my T-Balancer in to control the fans, but as the ASUS board doesn't seem to lower the CPU fan speed (I guess you need 4-pin fans) and because case fans are pretty noticeable, it might be worth finding a space for it after all.
Definitely glad that I bought the case though, and I really do hope that more companies move towards 90° rotated boards, but I'm not sure that it's worth the extra cash over the Raven unless you really hate the look of it. I did spend a bit more on some items purely for aesthetic reasons with this build, I'm not a fan of the plastic front/top on the Raven, and the shop I use didn't have the RV02-E without a window, but it seems to be 90% of the case that the FT02 is for half the price.
So I just pulled the trigger on this case a few hours ago, anybody got a quick summary of the first 118 pages of this thread
I saw something a few pages back on there being different fans being used, whats that all about?
Im going to be putting x2 6970s in this case, will i need to remove the fan shrouds on the bottom to get them to fit...I assume not since a 5970 fits and the 6970 is shorter.
Any additional tips/hints would be great.
I think all FT02s come with the updated fans now. Your cards will fit fine.
Make sure you have a modular PSU, long Blu-Ray drives may block last PCI slot. Be careful with the window, may scratch easy. Clean with a soft cotton cloth, I use an old shirt.
Top buttons are a little sensitive but solid, so don't lean on the top of the case. It's the best case I've used ever, so you'll enjoy it a lot.
Awesome goodness....PSU IS modular with the exception of the ATX power connector. How dusty does the case get after prolonged use? I keep reading that the postive pressure will keep dust out but how bout the guys in the trenches with these things, the system really keep pretty clean as advertised?
If you keep it on 24/7, it will be pretty clean. Just don't forget to clean out the four dust filters every few weeks and use a compressed air duster for all the crevices on the top case panel under the cover.