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Bambu Labs Printers

I use my X1C offline and just put files on a microsd card. You lose out on the ability to monitor it via internal camera and send it files though.
 
Is the P2S w/AMS worth it over the A1 w/AMS? Doubt if I'll be printing much more than PLA with the occasional PETG & TPU.

Reason I'm asking is I wasn't able to grab the latest sale price since I haven't got my XMAS bonus yet and Best Buy, Micro center and Amazon are out of stock on the A1 combos. Hopefully they come back in stock in time to get for XMAS gift, but looking for an alternative if not.

I just can't seem to justify the almost 2x price. Am I missing something?
 
Just resolved a printing AMS issue with my X1C.

The AMS would randomly disconnect, and reconnect. During a print, in the middle of the night etc. I sent tons of logs to support, and spent tons of time troubleshooting. Bambu gave no advice, and little to no support. They were clueless.. Even suggested upgrading my firmware which I'm not doing.

Eventually figured out the 4pin cable from printer to filament buffer was bad. Stole the cable from the other X1C to test... no issues for days so I bought a new cable and replaced it. No issue since.

The logs had to indicate something with the cable, but I got no feedback from customer support. I asked them multiple times to tell me what the logs said, they just ignored my question. I wish we consumers had access to their tool so we could read the logs instead of relying on tech support to read the logs and respond correctly.

S/H was more expensive than the cable... . Bambu should have sent me a new cable.

</rant>
 
^ This is why I want to buy that A1 Combo from Best Buy, MicroCenter or Amazon...so I can get the cheap 4 yr Extended Warranty since all the Chinese companies seem pretty worthless with their support and warranty.
 
A1 Combo ($399.99) still out of stock, but P2S Combo ($799.99) is back in stock now at Best Buy.

I'm sure eventually I'd start printing ABS and that, but $400 difference is quite a bit. Also, it would most likely go in my basement and the enclosed P2S may be better suited especially with a cat.
 
My ender 3 can print ABS beautifully. Don't let them tell you that you need the built in enclosed printer to do so. Grow tents are cheap.
 
On my X1C printer, I set it to LAN MODE, and then connect to it through the BambuLab software with access key. The printer displays it in its configuration settings. Copy that down along with the assigned IP on the Wifi. I can upload files through the network, start jobs and access cam. It sees the AMS and all the filaments. You have to leave an SD card in the printer to upload the files. No cloud or login required. Before that I was uploading through ftp client but had no access to machine.
 
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So the whole closed ecosystem aspect of Bambu printers initially put me off, combined with the fact that they don't have independently-driven Z-axis lead screws like Voron and similar DIY high-end printer designs. Figured they were overpriced.

But I got tired of messing with budget printers like the AD5X, chasing stuff like layer lines, manual bed tramming to sort out first layers despite auto bed leveling (turns out the stock build plate is a damn circus tent and you'll save yourself a lot of pain by getting a CryoGrip Glacier plate in 220mm^2 size because they're actually flat) and wondering if I could ever source parts, while my Ender 3s needed to be rebuilt into a Duender once I had the means to print ABS or ASA reliably, so I bit the bullet and tried out the local Micro Center's former shelf demo X1 Carbon, even though it turned out they restocked on P1S and P2S Combo units on Christmas Eve that day.

It's actually kinda eye-opening.

Yes, the X1C has a bit of an egregious price premium, was definitely not cleaned properly after the countless hours of demo prints, and I had to repair a damaged cable inside the AMS to get one of the feeders to work again, but despite all that, if I don't have any sort of layer failure (which can happen on *any* FDM printer if you don't dial things in right), it just works, more or less.

PLA prints? Any printer can do that competently with enough tuning. ASA prints? Just don't try to use supports (I did at one point, and the parts warped right off the support), and they'll come out as dimensionally accurate as you'd expect, and perhaps far stronger than you'd expect if you use the Strength process profile. PC and PA6/Nylon? Haven't gotten that far yet, but I am definitely going to attempt them later.

That's not to say I haven't had some janky moments. Perhaps because I had loaded a print job with so many different objects on the print bed, the touchscreen outright went unresponsive during my first big ASA print job and I couldn't cancel the warping parts specifically, or even confirm that the job was done hours later - it required a power cycle to become responsive again.

LAN Only + Developer Mode is a requirement to run OrcaSlicer, as it turns out (and I would've done so anyway due to my opposition to China cloud datamining), and OrcaSlicer 2.3.1 is a bit crash-prone on these Bambu printers that need a network plugin compared to any Klipper-based printer with a standard Fluidd/Mainsail Web interface. Easy enough to restart, at least.

Also, the latest 01.11 firmware keeps complaining about mismatched nozzle settings whenever I send it a job from OrcaSlicer and requires touchscreen confirmation to actually start the print job, even though I know they should match; downgrading to 01.10 fixes this.

Speaking of firmware, I know I can set up X1plus if I so chose, but I haven't decided to go that far just yet. That said, having the option to run X1plus in the first place is admittedly a selling point for the X1C to me over the P1S and even the P2S, as it effectively means the X1C is the *only* Bambu printer with any sort of community firmware - and that's going to be important when Bambu eventually stops with software updates.

Honestly, now that I've figured out the quirks, my gripes quickly shifted to not being able to print things fast enough, coupled with the toxic fumes when printing ASA - that internal activated carbon filter isn't enough, I'm gonna need to rig up a proper fume extractor to this thing and any other 3D printer I build to print proper high-temp filaments.

My wallet absolutely hates me for it, but now I get why people love these things, cost be damned - because when you have them figured out enough to where first layers and warping are no longer a problem (watch your build plate choice and temp settings in your slicer), you just send a print job and have confidence that your print isn't going to just fail midway through.
 
Was able to finally snag an XMAS present for myself (and kids) in the P2S Combo from Best Buy. Arrives Saturday and purchased the 4 yr Geek Squad Warranty as well.

Now to get some Inland filament from MicroCenter. Figure Black, White, Gray, Red, Blue, Yellow is a good starting point. Is PLA+ worth it over the PLA Basic?
 
bluestang said:
Was able to finally snag an XMAS present for myself (and kids) in the P2S Combo from Best Buy. Arrives Saturday and purchased the 4 yr Geek Squad Warranty as well.

Now to get some Inland filament from MicroCenter. Figure Black, White, Gray, Red, Blue, Yellow is a good starting point. Is PLA+ worth it over the PLA Basic?
Click to expand...
I wasn't a fan of the inland pla I got. Not sure if it was a bad batch, but my orange pla strings a ton. I dried it before as well as I always do. I typically order Amazon basics, sunlu, creality, or hatchbox. Honestly never had a bad experience with any filament other than that inland orange... Hopefully someone can chime in and confirm a different experience
 
Baenwort said:
I like using COEX and Atomic Filament as they are local enough that I pass one for work and the other for family trips and can pick up and even got a factory tour at COEX.

https://coex3d.com/

https://atomicfilament.com/
Click to expand...

COEX barely has any stock from what I was looking for. I'll keep an eye out for COEX sales and deals though as I'd like to support a US based company like this.

Ordered some SUNLU PLA Plus from Amazon as they come on re-usable plastic spools still.
 
Didn't read thread. Just came here to post I love my P1S. It lives in my garage with an AMS equipped with the Sunlu lid dryer. It's pretty much non stop printing *something* out there and once I learned to RTFM and started to understand what the settings all do it just spits out flawless print after print. I don't really care about custom firmware versions when this just works as is. I'm also a filthy Apple heathen and the Bambu Studio software works fantastic on MacOS, even better than on Windows from a lot of places that I read.

The only thing I would change is I wish it had a proper ethernet port. I've got a gigabit switch about 8 feet away on ip camera duty that would be easy to attach to. The built in wifi is very slow which I've read is a known issue. Other than that I would buy it all over again.
 

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bigddybn said:
Didn't read thread. Just came here to post I love my P1S. It lives in my garage with an AMS equipped with the Sunlu lid dryer. It's pretty much non stop printing *something* out there and once I learned to RTFM and started to understand what the settings all do it just spits out flawless print after print. I don't really care about custom firmware versions when this just works as is. I'm also a filthy Apple heathen and the Bambu Studio software works fantastic on MacOS, even better than on Windows from a lot of places that I read.

The only thing I would change is I wish it had a proper ethernet port. I've got a gigabit switch about 8 feet away on ip camera duty that would be easy to attach to. The built in wifi is very slow which I've read is a known issue. Other than that I would buy it all over again.
Click to expand...
In the middle of last year, I bought a Creality filament dryer (Creality SpacePi X4) that has dual two spool chambers so you can do different temps at the same time. I must have somehow missed this Sunlu device that fits on the AMS. It looks pretty good, especially for the price.
 
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Well, got my P2S Combo setup and running a couple days ago. Really is almost Plun-n-Play. Using LAN only mode right now and need to still update firmware, but having fun so far.

Printed a Poop Shoot, Bearing Dust Covers, Glass Riser w/ vent and IKEA Skadis, Glue Stick and Scraper holder for said Skadis holes. A coup!e of fidgets for kids all without issues.

Had an issue with a toolbox where the corners lifted, another fidget that was poorly designed so the hot end tip hit the part and moved it chasing stringing everywhere.

Now to find some 3D software for editing files to my needs and to create my own stuff. I'm so used to AutoCAD LT 2012 and 2017, and drawing in 2D for sheet metal and machined parts for 25+ years (drafting table before AutoCAD) that this is probably going to take some time to get used to other software.
 
Parents bought me a P1S for Christmas. Finally set it up yesterday.
Printed Benchy, neat!
Started printing a poop shoot but it ran out of filament from the sample roll of PLA basic it came with. More filament being delivered today. I didn't stop the print, so I guess it should be OK to resume when Amazon shows up.
Was going to order an AMS, but they are sold out absolutely everywhere.
 
Bought a P2s about a month ago and since I bought it from best buy, i'm going to be returning it for an H2C so I can do multi-color prints without a ridiculous amount of waste.


You can say that i'm addicted at this point. Just looking to print things to make my life easier, or make some cool trinkets for the kids.
 

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sparky1_2007 said:
Bought a P2s about a month ago and since I bought it from best buy, i'm going to be returning it for an H2C so I can do multi-color prints without a ridiculous amount of waste.


You can say that i'm addicted at this point. Just looking to print things to make my life easier, or make some cool trinkets for the kids.
Click to expand...

I also want a H2C. Id settle for the H2D if I had to.
Today is my 40th, trying to get the wife to get it for me
 
sparky1_2007 said:
Bought a P2s about a month ago and since I bought it from best buy, i'm going to be returning it for an H2C so I can do multi-color prints without a ridiculous amount of waste.


You can say that i'm addicted at this point. Just looking to print things to make my life easier, or make some cool trinkets for the kids.
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Not just wasted material, but wasted time. Changing colors every layer takes so long.
 
mnewxcv said:
Not just wasted material, but wasted time. Changing colors every layer takes so long.
Click to expand...
Yup, and it has dual nozzles, so 2 color prints should be fairly quick as well. Just gotta wait for the AMS HT to come back in stock so I can get one and then i'll be able to have 5 color prints pretty easily.
 
sparky1_2007 said:
Yup, and it has dual nozzles, so 2 color prints should be fairly quick as well. Just gotta wait for the AMS HT to come back in stock so I can get one and then i'll be able to have 5 color prints pretty easily.
Click to expand...

Unless you're doing engineering/super functional stuff, just grab another AMS
 
Looking for a smoother plate than what came with my P2S...any recommendations on one?
 
Got my 3d printer station setup the way I like it finally.

H2c setup with an AMS HT for left nozzle and 2x AMS 2 pro's for the right nozzle and tool changer.

Changed up all of the filament storage bags to cereal containers with spool desiccant holders to keep them dry in storage.
 

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sparky1_2007 said:
Got my 3d printer station setup the way I like it finally.

H2c setup with an AMS HT for left nozzle and 2x AMS 2 pro's for the right nozzle and tool changer.

Changed up all of the filament storage bags to cereal containers with spool desiccant holders to keep them dry in storage.
Click to expand...


Nice!

Did you see the filament track switcher thing for the H2D? Well, there are a bunch of notes about it for the H2C in the current release of Bambu Studio
 
alxlwson said:
Nice!

Did you see the filament track switcher thing for the H2D? Well, there are a bunch of notes about it for the H2C in the current release of Bambu Studio
Click to expand...

I did, but i'm not quite sure what the point of it is for the H2C.

The left nozzle is just attached to my AMS HT and i'll swap the filament there when I need and for everything else on the right, i've got 8 slots to use on the 6 tools.
 
sparky1_2007 said:
I did, but i'm not quite sure what the point of it is for the H2C.

The left nozzle is just attached to my AMS HT and i'll swap the filament there when I need and for everything else on the right, i've got 8 slots to use on the 6 tools.
Click to expand...

Sometimes that left nozzle goes unused for long periods of time even with the best of filament mapping.
It can speed things up, possibly, based on the print.
 
alxlwson said:
Sometimes that left nozzle goes unused for long periods of time even with the best of filament mapping.
It can speed things up, possibly, based on the print.
Click to expand...

I mean maybe on single color prints, but for me, anytime I slice a multi-color print using the default slicing option, it'll call for something to be in the AMS-HT.

Now I suppose if I didn't have the AMS HT, I could just use 2x AMS 2 Pro's to feed everything and have 1 slot leftover. Or alternatively, if the left nozzle runs out, it can auto refill from another slot on the AMS. That could potentially be a couple uses cases there.
 
sparky1_2007 said:
I mean maybe on single color prints, but for me, anytime I slice a multi-color print using the default slicing option, it'll call for something to be in the AMS-HT.

Now I suppose if I didn't have the AMS HT, I could just use 2x AMS 2 Pro's to feed everything and have 1 slot leftover. Or alternatively, if the left nozzle runs out, it can auto refill from another slot on the AMS. That could potentially be a couple uses cases there.
Click to expand...

I have 2AMS2 Pros as well as an HT.

I see this as being huge for multicolor printing with supports and using PETG or PLA for support interfaces.
 
We are between the H2D and H2C for us at work. how are you liking it so far? Main use for us would be support material and reducing purge and contamination (currently using single nozzle system).

Have you printed near the bed edge with petg or abs? Good adhesion?
 
Darunion said:
We are between the H2D and H2C for us at work. how are you liking it so far? Main use for us would be support material and reducing purge and contamination (currently using single nozzle system).

Have you printed near the bed edge with petg or abs? Good adhesion?
Click to expand...

I'm loving the H2C for it being a hobbyist printer.

The H2D has a slightly larger bed if i'm not mistaken due to the vortex system now taking up some space.

I have not printed anything large enough to near the bed edge, but adhesion is good with PETG. I'm assuming the bed heating element and chamber heater is better than the old P2S I had as I have not had many bed adhesion issues with it.

No printing with ABS yet for me, only PLA/PETG currently.
 
sparky1_2007 said:
I'm loving the H2C for it being a hobbyist printer.

The H2D has a slightly larger bed if i'm not mistaken due to the vortex system now taking up some space.

I have not printed anything large enough to near the bed edge, but adhesion is good with PETG. I'm assuming the bed heating element and chamber heater is better than the old P2S I had as I have not had many bed adhesion issues with it.

No printing with ABS yet for me, only PLA/PETG currently.
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oh good. our current assortment is a k1 and raise3d, so time to get something a bit better. hoping to get one of them soon to play with!
 
Has anyone else had to disable the setting "long retraction when cut" in your filament settings? I keep getting extruder overload errors because when changing colors, it leaves the filament stretched out and not a flush cut which causes issue when it loads that filament again.
 
bluestang said:
Has anyone else had to disable the setting "long retraction when cut" in your filament settings? I keep getting extruder overload errors because when changing colors, it leaves the filament stretched out and not a flush cut which causes issue when it loads that filament again.
Click to expand...

What printer are you using?
 
alxlwson said:
My P1S does the same thing, just makes a melted stretched mess. I haven't figured out how to solve this. My H2C has super clean cuts/retraction
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OK, thanks. I'm glad it's not just me then. I disabled that setting in my filament properties and am re-running a print that gave me fits yesterday with those constant errors. Hopefully it will make a difference.
 
alxlwson try disbling that "Long Retraction When Cut" setting under Advanced tab in each filamntn setting. Seems to have done the trick...hopefully it stays that way.
 
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