I'm kind of a big fan of the pass-through DP support in USB-C and Thunderbolt for laptops, especially combined with a dock or monitor that supports power delivery. Just plug in one cable and boom, video output, keyboard, mouse, webcam, Ethernet, whatever other USB stuff and it charges the laptop.How ironic, as I was looking for way to free up the DP port on my G95NC which was taken by my 5 year old Dell docking station (as it only has HDMI 2.0) I decided to give a try to that never used outgoing USB-C port on the back. Turns out it was some kind of pass through that worked even with my brand my Zbook so now I have 8K@120 hz 4:4:4 from my laptop via that same old docking station and the DP port free to use for my gaming PC
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Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 57" 7680x2160 super ultrawide (mini-LED)
- Thread starter kasakka
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I just recently replaced one of my old 4k 60hz samsung VA side screens with a more modern FALD mini LED LCD that has hdmi 2.1 and 120hz - 144hz, HDR and DV. Over my existing high bandwidth hdmi 2.1 cable with a dp to hdmi 2.1 adapter on my gpu, windows/nvidia panel would only default to a generic monitor at 1024x768 at 60hz and no features, no hdr etc. The single hdmi output on my 5000 series gpu is already taken by my OLED gaming tv.
I had to update my dp-to-hdmi2.1 adapter to a newer dp to hdmi 2.1 active cable which has a newer (or at least a different) chip in it.
Just mentioning it since you are talking about handshaking and recognition issues.
This cable seemed to do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRSFHVF5
Apparently it uses the Synaptics VMM7100 chip.
.
I had to update my dp-to-hdmi2.1 adapter to a newer dp to hdmi 2.1 active cable which has a newer (or at least a different) chip in it.
Just mentioning it since you are talking about handshaking and recognition issues.
This cable seemed to do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRSFHVF5
Apparently it uses the Synaptics VMM7100 chip.
.
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Yeah that seems to be the chip that works the best. Some vendors offer some customized firmware to make it more compatible with Macs somehow. For example CableMatters adapter has such a firmware you can install but that might make it work less well on Windows.
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I am hoping for an update for those PC desktop users, as to what's their current GPU and how many GB of Video RAM on their video card, while they are using this 57" monitor.
If you don't do gaming on it, you can run it off probably most reasonably modern GPUs just fine.
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I only do a small amt. of gaming: I never play first person shooter, I only do 3rd person shooting, and so far, it's 2D only, such as R-Type Dimension EX Final. The lowest Video RAM that I can see is 8GB for the RTX 5060, and the highest for RTX 5060 is 16GB. So I most likely would choose btwn. 8 to 16GB.
Yeah, as mentioned above, my new Zbook laptop apparently could run it at native resolution at 120 hz even. This has me tempted of trying out if it could even drive my 8K TV that used to be my monitor until the previous laptop said no can do to drive that even in 60 hz so I had to downsize to the 57"
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I think the HP Zbook only has 4 GB of RTX 500 Ada DDR6 video RAM, in that case, I'll settle for RTX 5060 Ti at 8GB of RAM, because the RTX 5060 Ti w/ 16GB of RAM used to be in the $469 range, then it jumps to $800, and just now , it jumps to the $1100 range. Although the white color version is $200 cheaper (don't understand that neither). So I have no choice but to downsize my purchase to the 8GB of video RAM version
It could do 8K@60hz as well.
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well, can you confirm your laptop has 4GB of video RAM? meaning, if 4GB of video RAM works for you, it should work for me. The only website that I need a lot of graphics load up fast, is https://www.deviantart.com/
I can't see a GPU being unable to support a 7680x2160 screen just because it's only got 4GB vram. At 32bpp it only needs ~64MB for a framebuffer. ~128MB for full 8k. Add 25% or 50% for 10 or 12bpp. Still a small slice of 4GB. I had a GTX680 running 7680x1440 back in early 2013. Played games on it too. Of course surround didn't work so well until I got a second 680 for an SLI setup.
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well, in that case, I'll hold off to any new video card unless it's on sale or a good 2nd hand price. I still have some hope on the embedded Intel video module can work w/o slowing down. So far, it's working on 16GB of Sys. RAM, but that's on my current screen, which is only 4K
The big question is what kind of connection does your integrated video on your current system support? HDMI & DP versions. That's the main thing that controls what resolution you can run on the desktop. Actually limits 3D gaming res too, but the practical limit of GPU performance vs. res is usually the more important factor. According to NVidia's specs an RTX 5050 can run an 8k display at up to 165Hz. Way more than you need for a G9. Game on a 5050 at that res? No, not really. But it can do it if you just want to run desktop apps.
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I have a Asus Z890 Apex, its integrated video module only support 8K at ThunderBolt port. So I have a Ugreen Thunderbolt 4 to DP 2.1 cable at 40 Gbps rated, or 8K at 120Hz rated. The thing is, 8K is supposedly 7680x4320, and Samsung 57 is 7680x2160. So how do I calculate at what max. frequency can the cable support? Is it based on the no. of pixels?
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View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YB4dunHdUrU
this person said when he uses this monitor, he feels like he is "INSIDE the monitor" instead of "in front of the monitor. However, he also has complaint that the viewing angle is not good at 6:35 of the video. He said "moving your head side to side by 1 ft., you can notice significant shift in color and contrast"
It's a VA panel so it's not going to have perfect viewing angles. I don't find this to be a real issue in everyday use.
I've had mine for quite awhile and I've not found it an issue either.
Actually if you put a OLED or even IPS right beside it the color/gamma loss is pretty bad. Not really so much the horizontal but the vertical. There is basically no way to position yourself as desktop distance so that something either at the top or bottom doesn't wash out.
I realized this when comparing it in Forza Horizon 6. I was like wow OLED color is great and then moved my head down and all of a sudden the cars vibrance returned.
I realized this when comparing it in Forza Horizon 6. I was like wow OLED color is great and then moved my head down and all of a sudden the cars vibrance returned.
Lets not kid ourselves here, the viewing angles are horrible and I have always said that they are the main reason for the massive curve. Even my 65" 8K has better viewing angles even being flat. That said, the massive curve mitigates a lot of the problem, assuming you can accept or even prefer a massive curve of course (I would much rather prefer a flat monitor with good viewing angles myself).
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please describe in more details on your viewing angle problem
It's based on # of pixels and DSC support.
A G9 is half the pixels of 8K and twice the pixels of 4k, so you can pretty much just double the max 8k refresh or halve the max 4k refresh. GPU specs are frequently incomplete as far as what they can actually do goes since they tend to just list standard resolutions. But it doesn't matter because it's all about bitrate & pixel count. It's been this way for a long time. Back in the mid 1990s I was running custom modes on 1993 hardware. As long as you had a multisync CRT what mode you could run was pretty much all about how much Hsync the tube could take and how many pixels the ramdac on the vid card could pump out. Vsync could be a limitation, but that only mattered at low resolution or eye-bleed slow refresh rates at high res, so it didn't really count. Vid cards/GPUs never lost that ability to spit out whatever res. If they have the bitrate they can do it.
Your cable is 40Gbps so UHBR10. The Z890 Apex specs say it can support up to UHBR20 on one port at a time. Best I can tell the 57" G9 does UHBR 13.5 (54Gbps). Samsung just says "Displayport UHBR 13.5 or better" or HDMI 2.1. Either way 13.5 should be fine. You might need a better USB-C/TB to DP cable for 240Hz. I'd expect it'd still work at 40 but maybe not at full speed. Too bad that board doesn't have an HDMI 2.1 port. Might be easier & cheaper than dealing with ThunderBolt to DP2 adapter cables. I'm thinking what you have will be fine for a non-gaming setup. Might not get 240Hz, but my Dell P5226KW does 120Hz over DP1.4. UHBR10 with a few more pixels should do at least 120 on a Neo G9.
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well, w/ the price of these video card going up again, if I end up needing to buy a video card, I don't have a chance but to downsize to a lower price video card at 8GB of video RAM. So I'll go w / the monitor, since so many of you are happy w/ it. And see if I can put up w/o a new video card. As the old video card can only be used on my 2nd monitor, a 15 yr. old , 60" sharp TV at 1080p
To me a superultrawide that is not curved would be a terrible product. If anything, I wish this had an even tighter 800R curve to it.
I've had TN panels even at laptop size where I was moving my head like an owl because even minor position shifts make the colors go out of whack.
I've had VA panels that had unsolvable black crush and major color shifting, paired with awful dark color response times.
TCL/CSOT's VA panels like used in the Samsung are about as good as VA panels get, which is that they don't have major response time or viewing angle issues IMO.
No, they are not OLED or even IPS by any means, but it's not like you have options for other panel types for these.
At the same time I'm happy that this is NOT OLED because I don't have to worry about how I use it. For me it's 100% only a display for desktop use nowadays. I play games with my LG CX 48" from the sofa because my 4090 is much better suited at handling 4K @ 120 Hz and I don't have to deal with ultrawide issues in games - or the superultrawide FOV distortion.
Don't take me wrong, the Samsung far from perfect but it's still pretty good. I've had mine for close to 2 years now and don't see much reason why I would change this to anything unless it fails. So far I've had a couple of times that it has not woken up and I had to cut the power, wait a bit and turn power back on. Then it works just fine again. This is a very rare case too.